Shangri-La "the Eden in Dream" - Journal Day 4 of 8 - Lijiang, First Bend of Yangtze River, Stone Drum town, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-la

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Since it first appeared in British novelist James Hilton's Lost Horizon in the 1939, it has been associated with a mystique place which could not possibly exist here on Earth. In Tibetan, Shangri-La means the "sun and moon in heart", an ideal home only found in heaven.

We departed from Lijiang at 08:00 in the morning by renting a car with driver to Shangrila, and we booked her for 2 days trip at Shangri-La from Lijiang (yes...the driver is a lady, and she was super nice!! I would recommend her to anyone). 

It's about 175 kilometers (108.74 miles) from Lijiang to Shangri-La. At an average altitude of more than 3,000 meters (about 9,843 feet), this city is quite difficult to be reached. There are no railways leading there at this moment, the only transportation is by car or taking long distance bus.

On the way, our driver offered us to buy some apple which we saw some people selling on the side road, we stopped and the seller took us to his farm house to choose from there and we experience the most fresh apples that we ever taste, it was so juicy and sweet without any additional chemical which we can found at supermarket at the big cities.

The First Bend of the Yangtze River & Stone Drum town

After 1 and half hour drive from Lijiang, we stopped for a while at the photo spot of the first bend of Yangtze river, it is just next to the main road. Yangtze River, considers the mother river of China, flows majestically through the center of China and is the third longest river in the world.

We continue exploring the village near by from this first bend of Yangtze river, Stone Drum town, which is only few minutes away from the photo spot. Stone Drum Town is beside the First Bend of the Yangtze River. The reason for the name of the town is that there is a white marble monument in the shape of a drum in the town.

There is a famous iron chain bridge called Tiehong Bridge, it resembles the shape of a rainbow arching over the waves below, spanning across the river that flows along from the left side of Stone Drum Town. 

The iron chain bridge was built during the Qing Dynasty with wooden boards held onto the iron chains on the bottom as the flooring and on the both sides as fence to protect the walkers. 17 meters in length, people would be feeling a bit wiggling while on it, but it does send them back to the snapshots of history.

Stone Drum town was a significant and vitally strategic military area where many famous historical events have been taken place. It was here that Zhuge Liang, the famous and highly military strategist of the Three Kingdoms Period, chose to cross the Yangtze River and gain "battle advantage" over his opponents. 

The first emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, Kublai Khan, used this place for his expeditionary forces to ferry across the river. 

In April 1936, the Second Route of the Red Army, led by General He Long and Ren bishi, crossed the river here and continued to march north. There are memorials here honoring the people whose histories are entwined with the Stone Drum Town.

The road sign of some attractions around Shangri-La, we found on the way between first bend of Yangtze to Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hǔtiào Xiá)

We continued our journey around 1 hour drive to Tiger Leaping Gorge, we paid the entrance ticket for RMB65/person. When we arrived at the parking area, you already have a splendid view on the wild part of the river and the huge mountains that together form the Gorge.

A stair leads you down to the river, but keep in mind that it are in total 440 steps down and up again. 

In the middle of the smallest section of the river there is a big rock. It is told that at this point a chased tiger escaped a hunter by jumping over the river.

At a maximum depth of approximately 3790 meters (12434 feet) from river to mountain peak, Tiger Leaping Gorge is one of the deepest and most spectacular river canyons in the world.

it's easy taking stairs down to see the main area of tiger gorge, but it hard and need some effort to go up by stairs to exit which is the only way to the parking area, so you will need to consider to take more time  to exit when you are with elderly people.

Journey to Shangri-La

After 2 hour drive from Tiger Gorge with amazing views of hills, tibetan villages, horses and yak on the meadow which you will see on the way to Shangri-La.

For some people might fell uncomfortable due to high altitude sickness. So, it's advisable to bring oxygen canister with you while you are in Shangri-La (can be bought in many supermarket/hotel around this area).

We stayed at the old town village, Dukezong (独克宗), and luckily car can get it to the old town, so it is more convenient for us to go to our hotel. 

Some of the old town now is under renovation due to big fire in early January in 2014, About half of the old town was destroyed by the fire, half was spared.

There were not much things to do at night in Shangri-La, so we decided to join Tibetan dinner house with singing show and dancing performance. It started at 19:30 and its a thoroughly engaging show, just that it's all in Chinese.  The food is cooked in a hot pot in front of you with vegetables and many kind of meat, served with drinks such as butter milk, traditional wine (very strong!!)

We learnt one word that night; "Zha-xi-de-le", then....drank a cup of local wine...bottoms up! and again!

Proposing a Toast and Tea :

Before you drink a toast proposed by Tibetans, you should moisten your index fingers with the liquor, flick this finger three times, and then say "Zha-xi-de-le". ("Zha-xi-de-le" means "as lucky as one's wishes" in Tibetan.) According to the Tibetan customs, you should sip three times and the host will refill your cup three times. After that, you ought to drink up. If you really can not stand much liquor, you can tell the host politely.

To be continue : Day 5...

Lijiang "Oriental Venice" Journal Day 3 of 8 - Jade Dragon Mountain

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Day 3

Today we woke up at 07:00 and still very dark outside in this end of December in Lijiang, and we left hotel early when the sun has risen at 8:00 in the morning, and we hired taxi from the gate of old town to Jade Dragon Mountain ticket office (taxi waited us to buy ticket) and continue to main entrance & bus station of Jade Dragon Mountain for RMB100 one way, this seems the only way to safe time (especially during low season which public bus is not easy to get), and just found out that ticket office location is very far (which few km and definitely is not walking distance) to the main entrance & bus station of Jade Dragon Mountain.

Jade Dragon Mountain tickets (December 28, 2015) :
Bus : RMB 20/person
Cable Car : RMB180/person
Both paid at the ticket office

Entrance Fee (paid at the main gate which is not the same location as ticket office) : RMB130/person

The Legend of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

In ancient times, two twins Haba Snow mountain and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain lived in the area and panned for gold in the Golden Sand (Yangtze) River. One day an evil demon started to terrorize the river. The twins fought the demon and Haba died in the ensuing fight and Jade Dragon wore out 13 swords to defeat the demon.

After the fight Jade Dragon stood guard over the local people with his 13 swords. Over time the two brothers turned into snow covered mountains and the 13 swords became the 13 peaks.

At the visitors center there was a small queue as we came during low season in end of December, and later we were in the bus to the cable car station. In Lijiang town which is at about 2600 meters altitude, you are then at 3800 meters. The cable car takes you up to approximate 430 meters for 15 minutes and the last, and the most life challenging climb, is this 300 meters which you have to climb on stairs. 

Climbing up by stairs at that altitude is not easy, with very thin air to breath, we have to walk slowly, and we have to use oxygen can few times a long the way. But by the time when you reached at the top, the views are amazing! 

Resting at the highest area of 4680 m altitude Jade mountain while waiting the fog gone from covering the mountain. Need to be very quick when the sky is clear, because anytime the fog will cover the view again.

After we finished, we returned by cable car down, and continue to Blue Moon Valley, 白水台 Baishuitai by bus which we can find very easy at the exit.

There are 5 lakes in this area, the most famous one, and the first which visitor will see is White water River terrace which formed by runoff from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Yuye Lake, Jintai Lake, Langyue and the last one is Tingtao Lake.

There are options to take the battery car which need to pay ticket for RMB50/person after get down from the bus at the Blue Moon Valley, it takes you to 2 stops, one is the main area White Water River terrace and the second stop is at Tingtao Lake.
The water here is extremely clean as it is filtrated and purified by gravel and stones when running, and hasn't been polluted at all.

We returned to Lijiang town, by taking the minivan car, you can find this car from people carry small banner written "7....(with all in Chinese)", for RMB20/person, this car will departed after it full, and this will takes you back to anywhere around old town area in Lijiang.




To be continue : Day 4...

Lijiang "Oriental Venice" Journal Day 2 of 8 - Lashihai Lake

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Day 2

We started quite late in the morning, and we had late breakfast too at almost 10:30 in the morning. We planned to go to Jade Snow Mountain that day, but our friendly hotel reception, Merry, suggested us not to go there as it is too late already to avoid long queue (buying ticket, cable car...etc), so she offered us to go to another place which is Lashihai Lake if we want to have some activity at the lake, horseback riding and meal + pick up/returned transport by car included for RMB280/persons, so we decided to go there. 

We drove by car for half hour from the old town with some other people in 11 seater car, the first impression after arrived there at the riding horse reception was not really excited, as it had just like a temporary resting place with horse ranch at the back, and the toilet was not impressive too.

Then, after we paid the fee, they asked us with 2 options, whether we would start with the horse riding or lunch first.

As we need to go to toilet and it's almost lunch time, so we choose lunch first, then we got in the car again,  and they drove us to another place to have lunch.

We arrived just a few minutes later to new place, with more excitements begins to our new journey......the place really nice facing to the lake with many white tents and sofas to relax, clean restaurant and clean toilet too.

At the restaurant, they gather us at least 8 person on every table, served with hot pot with chicken soup, tofu and vegetable. Next to the hot pot soup there were baked potato too, it was not bad for the price we paid actually to get this experience with this environment.

We finished lunch, then we can relax at the lake's tents, with some free-flow refreshments such as  simple tea drinks and fruits and we can do kayaking for free, as it is included as long as you want (seems they don't limit the time how long we can played this)

After we finished spent time almost 1 hour kayaking at the lake, they offered us to take a small boat with some other people around the lake. (again) This is for free as this is included to the package we paid.

It took us 20 minutes tour around the lake, which we had the same view during our kayaking too.

Note : 

I saw around the lake area there are many different kind similar places and might be cheaper, but I think there will have different service and environment....and only the company we joined who has the "white tents" and looks more luxurious and clean. 

Horseback Riding

They drove us back to the first place we arrived at the horse ranch, and we start our 2 hours journey with horse around the village and hike to the hill. It's seems a little bit dangerous when we crossed the hill up and down with very narrow path and steep cliff, but it was fun!!

We finished in the afternoon, and they take us back to our place at the old town by their car, and we no need to pay any more fee nor tips....just say xie xie to them after finished and they were very happy to serve us!

To be continue : Day 3...

Lijiang "Oriental Venice" Journal Day 1 of 8 - Old Town of Lijiang

Our itinerary of Yunnan trip, we started from our home in Hong Kong by taking train from Hung Hom to Lok Ma Cau on Christmas day after finished church in the morning, heading to Shenzhen Airport departing at 17:55 flight to Lijiang via Kunming.

We arrived at Lijiang airport at 21:50, and directly went to our hotel, Orchid Land Boutique Inn, by taxi arranged by the hotel for free (compliment for staying more than 3 nights), and because of our hotel is inside of the old town of Lijiang, which car can not enter the old town, so here the tips : it is advisable to ask the hotel to arrange pick up, if you don't want end up lost your time to find your hotel in the old town which some street/alley are very dark at night, and very hard to find hotel address if you are first time there, better carry backpack, not big and bulky luggage with rollers (the road in old town will damage your luggage rollers easily) and for girls...don't wear high heals around the old town.....trust me.

Day 1

Old Town Lijiang

Start the day by buying the "Old town pass" or Protection fare ticket for RMB80/person, you can buy at your hotel or at the entrance of every gate of Old town by showing your passport as the ticket will be written your passport number too, and this ticket will be checked in every tourist places in Lijiang (Old Town, Mu Residence, Black Dragon Pool, Jade Snow Mountain, etc...), so bring this everywhere you go!!

We start our first journey from the hotel after breakfast to walk around the old town, and the first attraction we found after we passed the Square market (Shifangjie) was the Mu Residence, and we paid the entrance fee for RMB60/person. It is the Tusi Mu's Yamen of the Naxi Ethnic Group in Yunnan. Tusi Mu was the ruler of Naxi during the Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644), and Qing (1644-1911). During their reigning, this residence was the center of politics, power and wealth in ancient Naxi. From the top of this residence area, you can see the view which is a "must see" while you are in Lijiang, and take a good photo of whole old town village houses.

Lion Hill, it is the extension of Mu Residence at the top area which you need to pay (again) the entrance ticket for RMB50/person. The area cover with deep forest of the Lion Mountain, there situated the places for the Mu’s family to worship the Heaven, their ancestors, and the Nature, and you will see Wangu pavilion, a very tall building like pagoda at the hill summit, which you can see the whole old town and the bird's view city of Lijiang.

Double Water Wheels

One of the local attractions in Lijiang Old Town is this old still functional double water wheel, which so many tourists are taking photo there. The wheel you can find between the Red Wall and the Yuhe Square where "East Street" and the Old Town starts.

Black Dragon Pool Park (Heilongtan Park)

We walked outside from the old town main entrance, near the Double water wheels, about 20 minutes to the Black Dragon Pool park.

It is free entrance for this park, and only checked "Old Town" pass ticket only.

The front gate is of the park is a grand decorated archway with a board inscribed ‘玉泉公园’ (Jade Spring Park) hanging on the front. Deyue Pavilion is the center of the architecture complex in the park, seating in the center of the enormous Heilongtan pool and connecting with the bank by a bridge. The pavilion is also used as a research institution for Dongba culture.

Square market (Shifangjie) & Old Town at night

The center of the Old Town is the Square Street (Sifangjie). Four main streets radiate from Square Street and extend to the four different directions, which connected with a lot of bridges. There are many shops, bars and restaurants in this area, which good place to spend time in the evening.

Tips : When you want to go to the bar, better to go to the place near the exit of Lion Hill, there are a lot of bars with many great view of the old town with live music, it's easy to find from Shifangjie, just   see the highest pavilion and walk to that direction.

The Old Town is a maze of winding cobblestone streets. It is extremely easy to get lost as there is no grid, but each turn takes one to some new interesting spot, and it's not hard to eventually find one's way out of the maze and back to familiar territory. The most interesting when you are walking in the old city is the shop selling traditional music CD's and traditional drums which you will find many different kind of shops in every streets selling the same song...

Here the song which I uploaded in Youtube :

The Lijiang drummers' song: 一瞬间 - 小倩

Food & Restaurant :

Blue Papaya Italian Restaurant 蓝木瓜

No.50 Guanmen Kou, Dayan Town, Gucheng District, Lijiang, China 古城区大研古城关门口50号

We loved the interiors and colors of this restaurant, price is average (not cheap), but the food is really good to taste something new of local dishes, we tried the Steam Snow Fish with local Naxi's flavour (Price RMB 68/portion) which recommended by one of the waiter (as we saw many people ordered this when we came here during dinner time too)

And when you come to Lijiang, don't forget to try Shangrila Beers.

There are 4 kinds of Shangrila beer : Tibetan Lager, Tibetan Pale Ale, Black Yak (similar to a porter with some hints of coffee) and Supernova, which is a strong flavorful ale with hints of licorice.

To be continue : Day 2...

Hong Kong trail Section 8: Dragon's back

Dragon's Back is one of the most popular hikes in Hong Kong, in 2004 the Dragon's Back Trail was selected by TIME Asia as the best urban hiking trail. it's short (5km), simple and incredibly scenic. The best thing about Dragon's back is its accessibility, you can take MTR and start from Chai Wan or from MTR Shau Kei Wan, Exit A3 and take NWFB bus no. 9 and stop at the start point of hiking, To Tei Wan on Shek O Road.

Not far from the start point, hike few meters up, you have already can see beautiful view Stanley from across the hill.

Hiking at Dragon's back, there is really no way to get lost, the path is well signed the direction on each turns.

After about 3 hours, you'll arrive at Big Wave Bay beach. You can take the green minibus or bus no. 9 which will take you back to Shau Kei Wan MTR.